Holguín is a pleasantly civilized city of gardens, plazas and parks, lacking the colonial grandeur or romance of Camaguey or Trinidad, but with its own low-key charms. The province at large is home to the idyllic property where Raul and Fidel Castro grew up. The sleepy town of Gibara, whitewashed houses topped with red riled roofs, is an undiscovered gem with the largest amount of artists per capita in Cuba, and is popular with independent travelers seeking something similar to remote Baracoa, but more accessible.